Questions & Answers

2004 350z remote start doesn't work with evo-one

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To start off with... the instructions were wrong, somebody at fortin assumed that a 2005 350z BCM is identical across all model years of 350z and that wasn't the case, I had a HUGE hassle trying to find the correct wires for my 2004 350z BCM but i believe with 99% accuracy i wired things correctly, now with this out of the way, after installing everything, programming the module, using the dcryptor, and even successfully programming the RF remote, it doesn't remote start.

it locks and unlocks fine with the RF remote, but when i click remote start, it sends the signal and the module receives it, and it blinks red telling me it couldn't remote start, in fact absolutely nothing happens. not even the ignition or accessories being turned on. i do have 2.3 enabled in the options which is the correct harness configuration. I don't understand why it doesn't remote start. it's like no power at all is being sent

does anybody have any idea why?

Also why does this guide below for the rf kit have used pins on the 20 pin connector, specifically "bypass ignition", "ignition" and "start"--

https://cdn02.fortin.ca/download/33021/rf642w-install-guide-33021.pdf

--that this guide below NOT have?

http://cdn02.fortin.ca/download/78221/evo-one_ig_thr_bi_nis-350z-xterra_key_a_78221.pdf

do those ignition and start wires from the 20 pin connector go somewhere? i tried grounding them, i tried leaving them unconnected, I tried wiring them to the ignition and starter wires on the 6-pin connector, and it never made a difference. someone please help.
asked Jan 8 in Nissan by Erick Yip Pon (380 points)
edited Jan 8 by Erick Yip Pon

2 Answers

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So i found the problem, my idiotic self was lazy to install the hood pin, and i just assumed that having that wire grounded meant that the hood was closed, when it was the complete opposite, so basically, all this time, the module thought the hood was open. i just cut the wire i had grounded and it started up. I still have way more wiring to do so make it super legit, but that was the biggest flaw. the fact i hadn't hooked up the parking lights yet either made it so i couldn't diagnose the codes it gave me when it tried to start. but i looked up the different codes and there was only 3 possible codes before it starting. hood pin, valet mode, and ready mode. valet mode was disabled, ready mode is disabled but it's in automatic mode, so the only possible cause was the hood pin. I read its diagnosis and says maybe the wire is grounded and im like... no shit.... i grounded it on purpose thinking it meant the pin was closed.

anyway, I was gonna delete this but i hope it helps someone out there. either legitimately install the hood pin, or just don't connect it at all cause grounding it means the hood is open and the car won't start.
answered Jan 9 by Erick Yip Pon (380 points)
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You get your ignition and start wires from plug E. No need to use what's not in the guide. Check your links, not sure what your talking about for RF but it should only be wired to plug H. Also cut your yellow loop for automatics.
answered Jan 8 by Anthony Wilkinson (7,060 points)
I do get ignition and start wires from plug E, I am using the T-harness so that part was pretty straight forward. the yellow light on the module comes on when i turn ignition on with the key, and turning it, and i was able to program the module so it seems like t-harness is connected properly, i just don't understand why nothing happens when i try to remote start it, and of course, the RF antenna is wired to plug H... i mean... it's the only socket where it fits, and the remote is working fine, i was able to program it to to module fine and the lock and unlock functions also work fine. i also did cut the loop.

so i'd just like to know, what could potentially cause this exact symptom. cause the troubleshooting guide here only lets me choose "ignition turns ON but doesn't crank", well, it's doing neither.
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