Red Light Won't Illuminate

Question

2008 Toyota Tacoma: On my Fortin Key-Override-All it has worked for about 5-6 years now and the other day the remote start would crank but not start unless the key was in the ignition. Narrowed it down to the bypass module. I was a able to reprogram it after fussing with it for a bit. It worked great that day. Tested multiple times. I came back the following day (car not moved) and the remote start didn't work. In fact, this time it wouldn't even start with the key in the ignition until I unplugged the bypass. The bypass would no longer illuminate the red LED or program. I gave up for the day. On day 3 (this morning) I gave it another chance (car still not moved). The bypass illuminated (finally) but was locked and would no longer program. Good news though, it started the car this time. I have a feeling this is not the end of this fiasco though. I have a solid power and ground signal from my 4 pin.

 

What do you think the issue is?

 

Edit* just went out and tried to remote start. It doesn't work again but started with the key in the ignition. Of the 4 pin only the 12v and ground are used and work. Of the other connector the "while running" connector is grounded as soon as I hit remote start on my key chain and the remaining three t tap connectors which haven't changed in years have continuity though the taps.

Answer 1

Hi Jeremy,

 

I would start off by removing the t-taps, and connecting the RX,TX and Key sense wires directiy to the oem wires.

Then while you are looking at the module, try to remote start, does the red led illuminate? If not, try disconnecting the blue (-) while running wire from the the key-override all that goes to your remote start and touch it straight to ground, does the red light illuminate now? If yes, try to remote start.

Please follow this guide for connections (4) and programming (3) http://fortin.ca/download/26741/key-override-all_installation_guide_(new_look).rev-20150112.pdf

 

Comments

Have you ever known of a module failure?

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Any electrical module from any manufacturer can fail (there are no 100% no-failure rate devices out there, the space shuttle uses triple redundacy just in case of module failure, lol) that being said, it will always be easier to fix any possible issues that are connection related first before blaming the module to be defective.

Most electronic modules when they fail no longer function, the fact that yours exhibited intermittent operations leads more torwards loose connections (t-taps if the proper size is not used)

I would start with the troubleshooting steps that I outlined above to narrow down where the issue is coming from.